Off-Road In Cambodia

[jimbulljag]

Well I'm finally getting around to doing my trip report on my off road adventure in northern cambo. Just bought a gecko map so that i can figure out where i was. However, since we were off-road, very little of our trip was marked.

Flew into Siam Reap after a night in BKK where i ran into bm Peter G. on his way out of LOS. Sun was setting in a huge orange ball reflecting over the rice paddies and red dirt roads as we touched down in SR. Looked very much like the shot from Apocalypse Now. Got thru the paperwork quickly and got picked up by Soh Paul from Hidden Cambodia Adventures. Enjoyed the hotel first night and sucked down many, many Beer Lao's at 35bhat/each. Pretty touristy in SR but friendly folks overall. The beer bars are tucked far away from downtown area.

Up early the next day to get riding. Plans had changed overnight as three guys from spain joined me. These guys were a bit more serious than me having rode a few ISDE,s and had been on off road tours in north africa etc. So much for an easy trail ride. Our tour leader, Paul said that since we were all pro's he would make it worth our while.

Driving was intense leaving town, no stoplights, stop signs, turn signals and every kind of traffic coming in from all directions. Had to pay attention like back in my racing days. After getting out of town had a number of close calls with water buffalo, pigs, dogs, etc. Quickly learned how to look a water buffalo in the eye and figure out his intentions. Basically when one gets spooked, they all get spooked and take off across the road with looking at five guys on motorcycles. Much much safer once we got in the dirt.

First day we covered about 200km with about six or seven hours in the saddle. When we got to the temple at Preah Kham around sunset we were all pretty well beat. We had the temple all to ourselves, set up camp with a big fire to keep away any wildlife, and ate and drank heartily.

Pic1 - Off road and sometimes underwater (racing the ox-carts)
Pic2 - Out of the Jungle and into the village
Pic3 - Arrival at Preah Kham
Pic4 - Dinner at Preah Kham

[LivinLOS]

Been waiting for this TR... Would like to give this a go..

[MajorTom]

So would i, looks like a good adventure. Saw some advertising in PP, for dirtbike trips.

Whats the cost of this thing? How long does it last? Do they supply all the equipment you need?

[jimbulljag]

Originally Posted by MajorTom

So would i, looks like a good adventure. Saw some advertising in PP, for dirtbike trips.

Whats the cost of this thing? How long does it last? Do they supply all the equipment you need?

Major T.,
The website for these guys is HCDBT. Paul Hay is the tour leader and rides smooth and fast and his Irish wife, Sheila handles the logistics. They mostly specialize in northern cambo from siam reap to the thai border. I think i paid about $150 USD/ day all in (except airfare). Paul will go as fast or slow as you need, up 2 you. There are other folks leading tours of the south from PP. I brought all my own gear since I like to be comfortable but donated a helmet to them at the end. They do supply gear however. We were on XR 250's which seemed good for the terrain.

pic1 - morning in preah kham
pic2 - paul at the village gas station
pic3- a very tired version of me on the royal road bridge

[shwaygwailo]

Hi Jim,
thought you might like a laos report of bike touring
Minsking around Laos

[irishfrank]

Thanks for posting Jim looks like you had a great time!!!!beer and bikes jeeeze wish I could turn back my clock,unfortunatly back&knees kernackered so my biking days have well passed me by!!!!

SHWAYGWAILO

Really enjoyed your trip report,what a blast you guys had!!many of the photos were absolutley top notch!!!thanks for posting


BE LUCK FELLAS!!!!

[jimbulljag]

not a lot of sleep in the temple the first night even though we were all pretty exhausted. Good joking about tigers coming in and dragging one of us off. Since i was biggest i figured that no tiger would want to work that hard and take me. Nevertheless good jungle noise all night but plenty of mosquitos (at least i was under the net and had been taking my malaria pills).

Next day we hiked around the temple checking out the ruins, made coffee and headed out. We ran into the HALO guys clearing mines on the road outside the temple so no further warnings were needed about blazing our own trails. Not sure about those guys doing that kind of work but glad someone is willing to do it.

We found out that our intended trail was underwater so we had to take the long way (including 40k of deep sand). Heat, humidity, and sand got the best of me and i was running over my tongue and hitting the ground a couple of times. Frank from Spain and I managed to take a wrong trail and spent an hour in circles. However we left his business card on a branch hanging over the trail and the khmer boys rounded us up and off we went. Neither of us was keen to spend the night on our own lost in the jungle.

Got to a village and had the best lunch ever (yeah pork and noodle soup but very tasty even with the pigs hanging out in front of the place).

Late in the day we got to a guest house in Tbeang Meanchey. Running water and a bed couldn't be beat. Big plans to find a karoke bar and girls but after dinner and a couple bottles of wine (?) we were all beaten men by 9PM. Next day headed to koh ker which was a 9th century temple. Interesting climb to the top, mostly jutting stone (for size khmer feet) and ladders.

What i thought was very cool was that while we were messing around the temple, Paul was going to the local commune to deliver medicine to several sick people. His organization is also helping them dig wells with decent filtration and will bring folks back to siam reap (about 140km) if they need medical attention. Good guy who's giving back while we have our fun.

Pic 1- Reunited after two of us went our own way
Pic2 - Five star eats
Pic3 - entrance to koh ker
pic4 - top of koh ker

[shwaygwailo]

Originally Posted by irishfrank

Thanks for posting Jim looks like you had a great time!!!!beer and bikes jeeeze wish I could turn back my clock,unfortunatly back&knees kernackered so my biking days have well passed me by!!!!

SHWAYGWAILO

Really enjoyed your trip report,what a blast you guys had!!many of the photos were absolutley top notch!!!thanks for posting


BE LUCK FELLAS!!!!

Hi IrishFrank, wish it was my report, I'm currently researching for my upcoming tour and thought Jim might like the link as much as you did.


Jim thanks for the posts.

[irishfrank]

[quote=shwaygwailo;314535]Hi IrishFrank, wish it was my report, I'm currently researching for my upcoming tour and thought Jim might like the link as much as you did

I must read posts more carefully
never mind, good luck with your research look forward to YOUR trip report

GOOD LUCK !!

[jimbulljag]

Last day in the saddle. It was time to split from the boys from spain. they turned out to be great guys and really live for these off road trips around the world. They headed for the thai border at Preah Vihear and i headed back to siam reap with one of Paul's guys, Mr. Slim. Beautiful country, lots of palms and rice paddies. All in all about 600km of riding. I needed to get back because i wanted to spend a day at angkor wat and i had somebody waiting for me in LOS/

Truly a great adventure and bigs props to Paul and his guys. Highly, highly recommended. Just ask Paul about the condition of the bikes because they truly go thru hell. He's trying to get some newer bikes but it's tough to get bikes and parts into Cambo. Two most important things for the bike - a working horn and a decent knobby.

Mr. Slim and I spent a day touring angkor wat. One of the wonders of the world as far as i'm concerned. If you go, get a guide, they can explain the stories and keep you away from the tour bus crowd. I will certainly go back to cambo and spend a week doing a tour of PP to the southern coast (Kampot, Kep, and Snooky). I'll rent a bike and cruise on my own and ride up to bokor which is supposed to be cool. If anyone has ridden this area I'd like to know more.

Eventually made my way back to LOS and headed up to Chiang Mai with one friend and then over to singapore with another. No details but both nice ladies that i've known for a while. There had to be some women in this trip report after all.

pic 1 - searchin' for lara croft @ angkor
pic2 - chaing mai flower festival
pic3 - sentosa / singapore
pic4 - angkor face

[MajorTom]

Thanks for the report Jim. Will check this out next time im in the country.

[chachee99]

Check out the Heart of Darkness in P.P. Lots of hot chicks and yes they do put out. Wear a condom though because AIDS is really high in Cambodia.

[snowyriver]

Fascinating read, thanks very much for posting. I'm due out there in 3 months. Can't wait!

[FredLovesThai]

Do they ask for a driver license for the dirtbike tour in Cambodja?
I haven't got one but I drive one at home so I can drive.
Maybe someone a bit advice, I want to see the killing fields but now when
I read this thread, just feeling to take a 2 or 3 day trip with dirtbike.

Thanks,

FredLovesThai

[jimbulljag]

No driver's lic. needed but just be realistic about your skills and let your tour guy know. I learned to hate sand even though i raced in the desert for a number of years. Never in jungle humidity though.

loved the single track and the water crossings. If this is your first off road into cambo get on a tour. these guys know trails you'd never see otherwise.

pm me if you want more details.
jim

[The Loop]

I`m up for it in May or June 2008.If anyone else is send me a PM.

[hiddencambodia]

Greetings from Hidden Cambodia Adventure Tours ( dirt bike and 4WD) Siem Reap, the guys Jim travelled with on his off road dirt biking trip leaving Siem Reap.

Just if anyone wanted to get a look at photos from that dirt bike trip, Jan 7 from start to finsh you can link into our album with a gallery of that trip.Gives you a better idea of the terrain and country.
See here. Jan 15th, 07 Experienced Spanish & US riders - 4 days pictures from motocross photos on webshots

Ride safe, ride free
Paul Hay

[likeitalot]

fantastic TR. A dream holiday.

[The Loop]

Originally Posted by likeitalot

fantastic TR. A dream holiday.

Could be some BMs going soon Nige.Send me a PM if you want more info.

[LivinLOS]

Was considering riding up alone in a little bit.. I should have a bike here by weekend but may need some sorting out first before its ready for a cambo run.. Perhaps meet you there

[retepg]

Nice TR jimbulljag. It does seem that it is not for the novice.