From yesterday's Times:
ON AN almost empty flight from Bangkok to Phuket this summer I sat next to a UK tour operator who told me that he was ashamed that package holidays to the Thai island had been selling on the internet for only £350 a week, including flights.
“This kind of crazy discounting doesn’t do anyone any good,” he said. “Cheap holidays only bring in cheap people. Absolutely nobody benefits — certainly not the Thai people, the hoteliers, or the airlines. I knew this would happen, but it’s still shameful.”
On an eight-day tour of Thailand’s tsunami-hit south- west coast, I was astounded by the amount of new construction, from small hotels with fewer than 50 rooms to large chain hotels of more than 200 rooms and apartment blocks. Add on the rebuilds, and damage-fixing from the disaster, and it was hard to dodge the bulldozers.
There are those who prefer the facilities of a large hotel, but I confined my visit to new, more intimate properties in hideaway locations. What I found was a streamlined style of tropical luxury with fewer Thai flourishes — statues of Buddha, jewelled silks and curvy pavilions — and a more minimalist approach using natural materials, replacing marble with soapstone baths, sunk in Zen-like pebble gardens.
Apart from my first stop at the new Arahmas Resort & Spa on Naiyang Beach, ten minutes from Phuket airport, I managed to avoid construction sites. Here, my beach-front villa with private pool was lovely, but a large block of half-built serviced apartments next door defeated a lie-in. With hundreds of workers streaming past my pool, a skinny dip was not an option.
Naturally I heard tragic stories of loved ones lost from staff in the hotels, but that famed Thai smile was still there and people seemed more eager to please than ever. It’s not my cuppa, but one night I visited Patong, centre of Phuket’s night scene. All the shops, restaurants and girlie bars have been rebuilt and the only tsunami evidence was a solitary stallholder selling Wave of Destruction DVDs.
Such a disaster is also going to bring its share of good-luck stories, such as that of Anthony Lark, general manager of Trisara, Phuket’s stylish new luxury resort of 24 private pool villas. The Aman-style property, which opened only two months before the tsunami, was already attracting London society and celebrities.
Lark said that he was breakfasting with guests on Boxing Day when a friend radioed from his yacht to warn him to clear the beach and pool terrace because a giant wave was coming. “I could see a group of toddlers paddling in the shallows. If our pool attendants hadn’t acted fast to clear the area, we would have lost them as well as many others,” he told me.
The tsunami’s worst effects are still evident north of Phuket on the mainland at Khao Lak, which bore the brunt of the tragedy in Thailand, with more than 1,000 deaths. Hotels are rebuilding fast, but no more than half of the resort’s 4,500 rooms are expected to be ready by the end of this month.
Spare a thought for Andrew and Kate Kemp, a pair of British Hong Kong expats, who scoured the world for the ideal hotel site and planned to open the Sarojin, a 54-room five-star resort on a dreamscape Khao Lak beach on December 29 last year. They kept on all staff to help in the rebuilding and the hotel finally opened on October 1.
The beach is 10km (six miles) of white-sand beauty, the equal of anything in the Caribbean or Indian Ocean, with no tsunami debris or devastation. Sarojin, which looks set to be a stunner, has the 250-room Le Meridien, which reopened on October 15, as its only neighbour. Sadly, the drive to the beach is a grisly reminder of the tragedy, with many boarded-up businesses and abandoned hotels. It’s more ghost town than war zone, but still depressing.
So, is it the right time to go back? If you choose any of our hotels, the answer is “yes”. Anywhere else and it pays to grill your tour operator or travel agent about construction work. Nobody wants a piledriver in paradise or a hard-hat zone around the pool.
http://travel.timesonline.co.uk/arti...6716_1,00.html